Alpinist 93

Cover: Connor Herson works through the “pogo” crux on Drifter’s Escape in Sḵwx̱wú7mesh (Squamish). Herson completed the first free ascent of the route in July and proposed a grade of 5.15a—meaning it likely consists of some of the hardest trad climbing in the world. Christian Adam

Features

A Landscape Divided

Ross Taylor and Simon Madden chronicle how Parks Victoria’s failed consultation process has pitted climbers against Indigenous groups and threatens the small community of Natimuk, nestled between the international destinations of Mt. Arapiles and the Grampians. Meanwhile, Steve Arsenault, David Barnes and Hayden Jamieson share stories that highlight the evolution of the culture and pursuit of climbing Down Under.

Another Side of the Mountain

A life dedicated to climbing is what led Matt Spohn to travel the world, meet his wife and start a family. He’s also held dying climbers in his hands and suffered a near-catastrophic injury in a ground fall. Yet even as he heals from a spinal fusion, he knows he will return to the mountains. Why? It’s a question he ponders in this series of poems.

The Mountain as Partner

Researcher Anna Saroldi first read Scottish author Nan Shepherd’s The Living Mountain on a trip to the Cairngorms. It wasn’t until she became interested in queer and sexuality studies that something clicked: Isn’t the way Shepherd writes about the mountains a bit ... kinky? Herein, Saroldi explores Shepherd’s writing and how it presents a different, more intimate way of being with nature.

Through the Lens of Glen Denny

Glen Denny documented Yosemite’s Golden Age, bringing an artistic approach to climbing photography that continues to influence others. Dean Fidelman first discovered the man’s work in 1972. Many years later, they developed a bond that remains even after Denny’s death in 2022 at age eighty-three. In this essay, Fidelman shares rare photos from Denny’s expansive archive and gives us behind-the-scenes context.

Departments

Sharp End

Derek Franz finds solace in the boulders.

Escape Route

Derek Franz, Abbey Collins and Tom Hallberg share reading recommendations. Collins interviews Lane Christenson. Plus, the watch that ascended Nanga Parbat in 1953.

On Belay

Miles Fullman enters the hall of the giants on Baffin Island.

The Climbing Life

David Stevenson proves himself, Babsi Vigl contemplates risk and Hannah Mitchell laughs through setbacks in Tajikistan.

Full Value

Alan Wechsler cracks open his uncle’s journal from a 1982 expedition to Denali, deepening his understanding of the man and the trip.

Local Hero

Earl Bates reports on the El Cap reporter, Tom Evans.

Off Belay

Jeremy Collins shares excerpts from his latest book.