Alpinist 95

Description 

ON THE COVER
Will Sharp on the first free ascent of Peumayén, Cochamó, 2026. A few days later, Sharp returned to the wall with Mathieu Miquel and they both freed the route in a day. Hayden Jamieson

Features

Dreams and Sadness

In 1934, Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman led the first expedition to reach the elusive Inner Sanctuary of Nanda Devi. In a chapter adapted from his upcoming book, historian Maurice Isserman traces the threads of past and future. As humans continue to search for idyllic lands, he writes, “we do so in the knowledge that somehow, just being there, we diminish them.”

Peumayén: The Place of Dreams

After four expeditions to Cochamó, Chile, Hayden Jamieson sees that each trip has changed him. This past season, he and his partners encountered tough questions while free climbing a 1000-meter route they renamed Peumayén. “Who does this route belong to now that our experience with it is behind us?” Jamieson reflects. “How can we become better stewards as our sport’s popularity explodes?”

Lost and Found

In 1924, a teenage Paul Petzoldt and his friend Ralph Herron ignored a town of naysayers and climbed to the top of the Grand Teton. It was Petzoldt’s first trip to the summit, planting the seeds for his career as a mountain guide. The photos from that climb, however, were lost to time—until recently. Kimberly Geil shares them and the story of how they were found.

One Man by Himself

British aid climbing ace Oliver Tippett confronts doubts and ideals during the second ascent of an obscure route on El Capitan. “I was beginning to suspect that I was on the most sandbagged route on El Cap,” he writes. He weighs his options and even asks one of the route’s first ascensionists for permission to alter it, but there are no easy answers.

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